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PART H—Section 3—Sub-section (ii) PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY
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(i) has feXtra warp a ™' fa. ; n c | u d i l l g buttas yarn er sari or any combination of thereof, tiii has a sfilid woven border; (S) has tie and dyed yarn warp-wte and/or weft-w.se, but does not include- „„«„„ u„iip
(i) crepe, chiffon, efahMMI, gwrgettes and cotton vo.le
(il) e S ' o f bleached silk ft** having a border in c x t r a ^ T^^^i^^oJUu^^crc^. couon yarn h ^ ^ o f j n o r c j h M J ^ - ^ ^ - - — •33/5 ^ r /og -2 - iaflL http://weft-w.se THE GAZETTE OF INDIA: EXTRAORDINARY [PART II—SEC. 3(ii)j
(a) Towel and Gameha
(b) Angavastram A towel is a fabric woven in plain, mat, twill, honey-comb, huckaback or a combination of these weaves with border and heading and includes. - (A) a towel-
(i) made of cotton or blends of cotton with any other fibre;
(ii) made in different dimensions;
(iii) which may be white or coloured;
(iy) which may contain decorative design when produced onjacquard; and
(v) with mat weave, commonly known as Erazha Thorthu in Kerala and Erazha Thundu in Tamil Nadu; (B) Gameha. -ungi Khcs, Bcdsheet, Bedcover, Counterpane, Furnishing (including tapestry, upholstery) Angavastram is a grey or bleached cloth of plain weave with border with extra warp in the borders and includes Angavastram-
(i) manufactured from any natural fibre including silk (except spun silk) or man-made fibre or any combination thereof; :• .
(ii) which contains white or coloured yarn or metallic or metallised yarn or zari or any combination thereof, in its border or headings;
(iii) which has a width ranging from 70 cms. to 100 cms. including selvedges; and
(iv) which has length varying from 1.50 meters to 3.00 meters: Lungi is fabric made out of cotton yarn or art silk yarn or in any combination thereof, having a width of 110 cms. or above and 64 ends or above per inch and woven in check and/or stripe design using coloured yarn to form check and/or stripe pattern. Jamakkalam Dwrry or Durret Khes, bedshcet, bedcover, counterpane and furnishings (including tapestry, upholstery), by whatever name they may be called in different parts of the country, and includes a double cloth made out of cotton yarn, and/or ;art silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or any yarn in combination thereof, which is woven with design pattern and/or a repeat of design upto 200 ends, irrespective of count and dimensions, but does not include a plain sheeting woven only in plain, twill, satin or sateen weaves. Jamakkalam Durry or Durret made out of cotton yarn or art silk yarn or woo] yarn or jute yarn or in any combination thereof, using, in the case of cotton yarn, coarse count of single yarn of upto 20s or folded/plies of resultant count upto 10s, or their equivalent count and in the case of art silk yarn or wool yarn or jute yarn, upto 26 ends per inch, woven with plain weave or twill weave or in combination thereof, in any dimension.
Explanation.- The count of cotton yarn upto 10s is equivalent to the count of worsted yarn upto 15s or woollen yarn upto
32.8s or count of art silk yarn not less than 530d denier or count of jute yam upto 1.7 lbs. [HFIII-^g3(ii)] ,OTa;,M^5PTif:^raittOT n
7.
8.
9. 10 Dress Material Barrack Blankets and Kambal or Kambues Siiawl, Loi, Muffler, Pankhi etc. Woollen Tweed Dress Material including Mashru cloth made out of cotton yam and/or silk yam (including spun silk) and/or art silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or in any combination thereof, woven with extra weft design in the border and/or body irrespective of count and dimensions and includes Telia Rumal and Real Madras Handkerchief.
(a) Barrack blanket means a thick fabric made of wool of about 34 microns and above, with fibrous surface, produced by milling and raising and includes barrack blankets made by using hand spun or mill spun woollen yarn from natural grey or black wool or combination thereof, and produced in any size or weave.
(b) Kambal or kamblies means a thick fabric made of wool of about 34 microns and above, with fibrous surface, produced by milling and raising and includes kambal or kamblies made by using hand-spun or mill-spun worsted yam, woollen yam or combination thereof, in plain, stripe or check design.
Explanation.- For the purpose of this order, items (a) and ' (b) shall not include barrack blanket, kambal or kamblies made out of shoddy yarn, i.e. a cheaper class of woollen yarn made from reused or recycled wool and synthetic rags, Shawl is a piece of cloth woven from worsted yam or woolen yam or Pashmina yarn or pure silk yam or cotton yam and/or any combination .thereof, which is used for covering body or worn over the shoulders without being put to any tailoring process and includes,- (A) a shawl-
(i) which is woven with extra weft design, using woollen yarn or worsted yarn or pashmina yam or pure silk yam or cotton yam and/or any combination thereof or in blends with other fibers which may be natural and/or man-made or synthetic, with dobby or jacquard design up to 400 hooks;
(ii) which is woven using any type of woollen yarn, .worsted yarn or pashmina yam or pure silk yam or cotton yam and/or any combination thereof;
(iii) which is woven with any count of yam; and
(jv) which is woven in any length, width and weight; (B) Loi, pankhi, mufflers, traditional shawls like kullu, kinnauri, khani,-pashmina, dhori, lirancha (Tibetan), gajari or any shawl, b> whatever name called, in the north eastern region.
Explanation,- For the purpose of this order, item (A) and (B) does not include article made from cashmelon yam. Woollen tweed is a piece of fabric woven by hundred percent. pure woollen yam for making coats, jackets and dress materials and is-
(i) produced in check or stripe design irrespective of dimensions; and
(ii) produced in 3/1 twill weave. THE GAZETTE OF INDIA: EXTRAORDINARY [PART II—SEC,3(ii)] 11 Chaddar, Mekhala Phanek Chaddar, Mekhala or Phanek is used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body and is manufactured from cotton yarn or silk yarn or art silk yarn or in any combination thereof, woven in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design irrespective of count and dimensions and is characterised by a border and/or cross border with extra warp and/or extra weft design and includes-
(i) puanof Mizoram;
(ii) Dhara, Jainsem, Dakmanda, Daksari of Meghalaya;
(iii) Skirts and Odhana fabrics of Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh; ' .
(iv) Riha and Pachara of Tripura;
(v) Pawade (set) or Dhawani of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, • Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Pondieherry; and
(vi) Dakhona, Danka, Khamlet, Phanek of Assam; twisted silk filament
Explanation,- for the purpose of this order, -
(a) "Chiffon" means a lightweight, open-mesh fabric, made from hard yarn in plain weave; . . - , , . , - j
(b) "Butta" means extra warp and/or extra weft spots design effect in the body of a saree or dress material; •.-. .
(c) "Pawade" means an ankle-length gathered skirt often in two-piece often used with sari or dupatta; ^ - • L H
(d) "bdhani" means ah oblong cloth of about 6 to n ft. long and 3 to 4 ft. wide, with overall : ''eihbrdidery'br Wovenjacquard weave with tfaditidnal design like himroo *hawl»r made up of a fabric decorated with-cottoh yarn or'siik'yarri^r zarior any other fibre andused to cover the body; • • ' . • ' • • '•'•••"••'" • • . " • " • ' : " • ' • " ' ' • • • ' • J
(e) "Chinon" means a cotton or cotton blended compel plain; or twill fabric mainly used as : summer wear; - • • a i . '• J- (f̂ "Upholstery" means intricately designed jacquard fabric used for upholstering and furnishings;
(g) "Mashfu"means a mixed fabric made ftom cotton yarn and silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn;
(h) "Mekhala" means a piece bf cloth with endssewn together, which is used by.women as dress or petticoat, in Assam f "'
(i) "Riha" means a cloth Worn by women oh the upper partofthebody;
(j) "Dhawani" meam a saree like f a b r i c ''Piian";ineiahs!a cloth used ^ r covering fdWerajf^ manufactured from totten'yarn br silk'yarn'of art silk^M'oirTO'OTn^inatiqn thereof, woven in plain or twill weave withicheck oVWtrip '̂desigh a r i d u ^ "Dhara" means' a cloth'uSed^lbrcdveririglhetd of the body manufactured. fromCottoribfsilkbreb^ r used commonly-in" M e g h a l a ^ as "Jainsem" or "Daksari" or i "Dakmahda"'',' ' " i^: 'y" v'::...1''"':; :"^!'::'; •:;-:;.(/;i:-V',;
(m)"Loi" meahs a doth woven from worsted or woollen or cashmelon or pashmina or any other fibre and/or blends thereof; which are used fbV'coyerihg the body; and also called as "Pankhi" } ' OT "Muffler" br "Shawl" in varying dimensibhs; ; ' ; ; '
(n) "Dhakona" means 7vafietibs;:used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body •; manufactured from 'cbftoh or silk.or combinatibn thereof, in plain or twill weave wtfh check and stripe designs arid commonly used in Assam. _ ; [F.NO.2/I/2008/DCH/CEO] ' .... B.K, SINHA, Development Commissioner for Handlpoms
(k) (0 Printed by Ihe Manager, Govt, of India Press, Ring Road, Mayapuri, New Delhi-110064 ' and Published by Che'Controller of Publications, Dclhi-1100S4,